Loden wool clothing has a long and captivating history that begins in the majestic Alps of Tyrol, Austria.
Originally, only peasants wore this unique material. In fact, the Imperial Decree regulated their clothing, and peasants could only choose between loden wool, linen or leather. The idea behind this was simple: to keep the people of the high Alps warm and dry during the harsh, cold winter months.
The loden wool's coarsely woven threads, created from the wool of the mountain sheep, underwent a unique 'rolling' process - a wet treatment process using heat, tension and soap that made the fabric denser and shrunk it by up to 66%. This was, in the eyes of many, the very first functional material.
But in the early 19th century, one man in particular would change the way loden wool was viewed forever. It was Archduke Johann, brother of Emperor Franz II. After a disappointing battle against French revolutionary forces at Hohenlinden in 1800, he was sent to Tyrol to represent his brother. It was here that he fell in love with the mountains, their people and their culture. He even embraced their traditional dress, especially Loden wool. When he then returned to the Habsburg court in Vienna, his style of dress aroused both suspicion and admiration. It was, after all, a time of romance, and over time his style would become increasingly popular. Even later, his nephew, the last Emperor of Austria, Franz Josef, would practically live in loden wool.
Archduke Johann was not just a fashion setter; he is still celebrated today as an advocate for the common people. The region of Styria, where he spent most of his life, benefited from many social and industrial projects sponsored by the "Prince of Styria."
Today, loden wool fabrics from the few remaining Austrian loden wool mills are back in fashion. The benefits of pure natural wool have been rediscovered. The old has become new, but today's loden wool is still not the same as that of centuries ago. Through the use of better techniques and luxurious fibers from Merino sheep, alpacas or cashmere, the quality of the fabrics has dramatically improved. Another factor boosting its popularity is the environmental and health benefits that fluff offers, especially when compared to synthetic materials. Loden is simply a fabric that harmonizes with the alpine lifestyle.
The genuine loden material can easily last for generations and even be passed on to the next. The pictures here come from the loden wool weaver Loden Steiner in Mandling, Austria, and show the process from carding, spinning, warp preparation, weaving, felting and final finishing.
Although loden clothing has its roots in Austria and the Alps, it has become part of Swedish clothing culture due to its excellent protection against cold and moisture. Especially during cold and wet Swedish winters, loden clothing has proven to be a reliable and practical clothing choice, even though it doesn't have the same historical connection to Sweden as, for example, wool or woolen clothing
Compared to tweed, loden has more of its own unique history and uses. Loden has its roots in the Tyrolean Alps and was originally created to withstand the harsh Alpine winters. Through wet processing, Loden wool becomes denser and better insulating, making it an excellent choice for cold and damp climates. Tweed, on the other hand, originated in the UK and has a more versatile use, from formal wear to casual countryside style. Tweed is known for its rough and rustic texture, giving it a genuinely rural feel.
The benefits of loden include its insulating properties and ability to keep you warm and dry in cold weather. Its timeless and traditional aesthetic is still very popular in alpine regions. On the other hand, tweed is known for its versatility and is equally suited to urban wear as it is to a more casual style in the countryside. Tweed has a more casual yet sophisticated character.
Tatra Jacket in loden from Deerhunter
Tatra Hunting Pants in loden from Deerhunter
For women
Lady Tatra Active jacket in loden
Lady Tatra hunting pants in loden
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